The Many Faces of Halva
by Kurma Dasa (adapted from an article on http://www.gourmed.gr)
who has ever visited a Hare Krishna Temple feast, or a Hare Krishna
restaurant will have undoubtedly tasted halva. The memory
of its sweet, warm, moist, spiritually-infused 'comfort food-iness'
will no doubt have lingered long after all traces of the buttery
ecstacy have left the lips.
You may not know just how widespread the halva story actually
is, and how much world history there is to it.
Halva is one of those dishes found from the Balkans to India
and claimed as its own by practically every culture and country
There are many versions. Basic halva, as it is found throughout
the Balkans and Turkey is a simple dessert. The most common version
is made by cooking semolina and then shaping it into balls which
are then sweetened with either honey or "pekmez"
- grape must syrup.
For Greeks, halva is one of the main Lenten sweets, especially
the variety made with tahini and sold in block or brick form. This
type of halva is called Makedonikos Halvas (Macedonian halva).
It is sold by weight and comes plain, flavoured with chocolate,
or studded with nuts. Greeks like to eat Makedonikos halvas sprinkled
with lemon juice and cinnamon.
There are at least five or six other versions of halva in
Greece, though. The most interesting recipes are the obscure cheese-based
halvas found in some parts of northern Greece as well as in
several Aegean islands. In these versions, fresh sheep’s milk
cheese is slowly heated until most of its fat is exuded. It is mixed
with sugar and sometimes a little flour. The dish is continuously
stirred over a low flame until it becomes almost liquid, but thick,
a kind of primitive fondue!
too, are the grain-based halvas from Thessaly. One old recipe,
"sousamohalva", calls for sesame paste (tahini),
wheat starch, chick peas and sugar. Farsala, near Volos, is famous
for its smooth-textured halva known either as sapoune or as "Halva
Farsalon" (pictured top of page). It is made with rice
flour and is opaque and unctuous with a crisp tasty topping of burnt
sugar. There is the hard, white "kommat halvas",
very similar to nougat, which is studded with walnuts, and which
is found in bakeries in Salonika. "Halva tis Rinas"
is a baked semolina version, the most common kind of halva
and the one usually found in the home kitchen.
Although halva is found all over Greece, it seems most likely
that the etymology and perhaps the origins of the dish are Turkish.
According to the "Classical Turkish Dictionary," the word
'halva' in Turkish means sweet, but has evolved over
time to be associated mainly with the name of the particular sweet
In the "Turkish Cookbook," Nevin Halici writes that
halva - or helva as it is called in Turkey - is the
oldest dessert in Turkish cuisine. Mention of the dish is made in
the 13th century works of Mevlana Jalaluddin-i Rumi, who conceived
a philosophy of harmony and cooperation and provided much information
on the subject of food. Many dishes are described in Mevlana's works,
among them two versions of helva, one made with grape syrup
called "pekmez helvasi" and one made with almonds
called "badem helvasi". In the 15th century, during
the reign of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, under whose
rule Topkapi Palace was greatly expanded to accommodate a more elaborate
court life, the kitchens were rebuilt to include a structure with
six domes called the Helvahane, or House of Helva,
where, among other things, numerous varieties of halva were
By the 17th century, the elite of Istanbul were holding elaborate
dinners called Helva suppers, perhaps not unlike the symposia
of the ancient Greeks. At these Helva dinners, the sweet was served
as a kind of intermezzo between sessions of discussion and entertainment.
In some parts of Anatolia to this day helva suppers are still held.
Today, helva is still a very popular sweet in Turkey, consumed
on special occasions, but especially to mark births and deaths.
There are several versions to be found. One is a loose pudding made
with semolina into which is stirred sweet hot milk. It is seasoned
with saffron and pistachios. The funerary dish is "Kara
Topak Helva", which is made by browning flour and sesame
seeds in butter and adding hot pekmez syrup and walnuts. The mixture
is kneaded like a dough and served warm. (There is a Turkish saying,
"He carries the halvah pan on his shoulders," which connotes
that someone is dying.) Another version, "Un Helvasi",
is made by slowly browning flour in butter, then adding a sugar
syrup and pine nuts, not almonds or pistachios. "Irmik Helvasi",
is a granular pudding also made with semolina and hot milk. Helva
is a favorite votive gift among Turkish women.
Although there are disputes as to when, the dish, or at least its
name, seems to have moved south and east from Turkey, into Syria
and Lebanon, the Gulf States, Afghanistan, and, finally, India.
Some sources say that Turkish emigrants, not Ottoman conquerors,
brought it to the Arab countries a mere hundred or so years ago.
Most agree it was introduced into India by the Moguls in the
In the Gulf States, "halwa", might be made with
corn flour, butter, sugar, nuts, cardamom, and saffron, and served
in small containers like individual puddings. It is one of the most
frequently consumed sweets, usually had with coffee and served to
visitors. One also encounters the tahini-based version, to which
is added an emulsifier called saponin, an extract from the roots
and bark of a tree called Saponaria Officinalis. This version is
known as "rahash" in the Gulf and as "halwa
shamiyah" in the countries of the Maghreb.
In Bahrain, Kuwait, and Qatar, we encounter the "sembosa
helwah", made with ground almonds, sugar, cardamom, saffron,
rosewater, flour, oil, and water. The ingredients are kneaded together
and fried, and the dish is frequently made for wedding feasts.
In Iran and parts of Afghanistan, halva is sometimes translated
as saffron cake, and is most often made by browning flour in a skillet
as one does to make a roux, then adding to it a sugar syrup flavored
with saffron, rosewater, and cardamom. The mixture is spread in
a shallow dish and garnished with pistachios.
Oddly, in Iran it sometimes is served as a main course with
a wedge of the Persian flat bread called "lavash", and
it is also one of the dishes with which to break the Ramadan fast.
Iranians also make a liquid form of halvah with the same ingredients
but three times the amount of water, which is served hot.
Some versions of the dessert, like the helwhaat el Jibni
of the Lebanese, include cheese. In a most unusual recipe, a soft
fresh cheese is poached in water then drained. Semolina and some
syrup are added to it. The mixture is spread into a shallow baking
sheet, rolled up, cut into strips, then dipped again in syrup. Nikos
Stavroulakis in his book "The Cookbook of the Jews of Greece"
also mentions a cheese halvah, from Hania.
all the countries of the East, though, India possesses by
far the most unusual recipes for this most popular, widespread sweet.
The Indian Sooji Halwa (similar to the one pictured left)
contains many of the same ingredients most Greeks associate with
halva, including semolina, sugar, and butter. But sometimes the
wheat-colored dessert, India style, is studded with black raisins
and is redolent of cardamom. It is the most commonly prepared dessert
in Indian homes, oftentimes served with a dollop of heavy cream
poured over it, and one of the main foods given to nursing mothers.
Some of the most unique and delicious Indian halwas are the ones
made for banquets and feasts. One calls for carrot simmered
in coconut milk for hours until it becomes a delicate pudding. Another
banquet preparation is the pumpkin or gourd halwa
and the banana halwa (also found in Turkey). But perhaps
the most unusual Indian recipe of all is the "dhall halwa",
made with black lentils, semolina, rose water, coconut, and almonds.
Welcome to the wonderful world of halva!
<< Previous Essay